やった、昨日４時間くらい海入って、久しぶりサーフィン良かった！１回フィンがインサイドでスナップして、家に帰って2ndボード（ノースもスナップのに）取って、まだ海にダッシュで行った！クニが夕方撮影終って、アンジーの所に来て、ちょうどクニがパダルアウトして波がダメなっちゃった！ハハ！かわいそう！水も温かいし、カイパンもぜんぜん大丈夫。
終ったら、クニと一緒に焼き肉行っちゃった。幸せ！
夏は最高だね。この間、マリちゃんとプールでずっと遊んで、今度はサーフィンを教えたい！
Yesterday I surfed for 4 hours, and for the first time in ages it was pumping. Snapped a fin, dashed home and changed boards, even though my spare has a snapped nose-just the tip-and then went back and waited for kuni to come after his shooting, and would you believe it was good all day until he paddled out and then it went crap! ha ha, poor thing! ahh, water is warm, boardies season has arrived. Dinner was Yaki Niku......live is beautiful!
Mari and I played in the pool all afternoon the other day, next she is learning to surf!
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