Recently I've been tuning my mind in to creating balance within my own life. Kuni and I spend months and months of each year flying back and forth, churning out k's in rental cars and using a ton of the earth's precious resources to fullfill our love of surfing, and make a living out of it. So to balance that I always carbon offset our flights, have recently turned vegetarian and am trying only to eat seafood that is caught locally by fisherman, or even better, my lovely husband.
I'm verging into the realm of over-paranoid, or perhaps not paranoid enough, of the amount of 'iranai' (unwanted/useless) STUFF that we have collected in our house...more surfboards than we ride, countless 'omiyage' (souvenirs), more t-shirts than we know what to do with and other odd bits and pieces. What to do with it all in a country where garage sales don't exist? Donate, to charities, where possible, and flea markets. Yahoo auction. Ebay-my Aunty Chris LOVED ebay! But my favourite, is to pass on things to friends. This act of recycling stuff is so inspiring!! We should all really do it more often. I'm even thinking about bringing up the idea of recycled only gifts at Christmas for the family...
So why the worry? Why this ongoing urge to be more environmentally concious? Because I am a surfer.
The ocean is my playground, my meditation post, my friend.
Her creatures are my cousins, from the smallest piece of coral to the largest whale.
The land is my comfort. Pitch a tent and breathe in the fresh air.
This is the simple life, the special life, and for those who dare you'll never turn back.
This blog is dedicated to the people in my life who have given me the inspiration to surf, search for waves and clean up my footprints. The people who take charge and just go for what they beleive in. And to everyone else who touches my life in some way special-my family, my friends, all whom I can't mention here but I think of every day. Thankyou.
I feel the need to continue to wake each morning and look out the window to check the wind. There's an amazing connection with nature that comes with being a surfer. Wow, what a special life we are given.
Ry has already caught his first wave and even splashed around in the water off a boat in Bali at the outer reefs. As a parent who lives for the ocean, watching your child appreciate even more than what you do is a humbling thing...the way he picks up the sand in his hand and then opens his grasp and watches the wind catch the granules...what is he thinking? Most of the time he just eats it, but when he actually plays with the sand it's an increddible thing to watch. When a wave comes and crashes over his face and he blinks for a moment then wiggles him arms in the sign for wanting more...it's increddible.
Life is pretty special.
Surfing is even more special.
Keep it real, keep it real simple.
Aunty Chris-women's surfing warrior, your passion will go on forever and every wave I catch I know you will be under my feet
Mum-your courage and love is what keeps me going in the difficult times and your laughter is what I hear whenever I feel alone
Uncle Pete-noone could be more dedicated to surfing, and masala, than you.
Ryder-My wild boy, half monster half angel son. Take on the world as the big waves of life come at you, just go go go. I'll be there whenever you fall.
And to everyone else, hold onto what you beleive in, go at it, and reach your dream by keeping it green. My sisters, cousins, friends, family, I treasure you all so much!
Me and Aunty Chris on my wedding day in Hawaii
Giving huge love to my Cousin, Serena, one of the very special people in my life