Tuesday, May 18, 2010

This is why we SURF!

Two heroes in my eyes-Uncle Coxy and Aunty Chris-you guys are the reason I surf!

The Coxes!

What a crowd!

Coxy with Serena and Tess

Paying tribute to a wonderful woman

On the train to Tokyo this morning I couldn't help but wonder what percent of the people on board are doing what they love. People watching on the trains is an interesting way to pass the 2 and a bit hours from Ichinomiya to Shibuya. They start out a cross between country folk and tanned surfers, and eventually all sorts start to jump on board as the train creeps closer into the city. Arriving in Shibuya a couple hours earlier than my scheduled meeting, I was able to enjoy a few plates of sushi and do some window shopping, and of course some more people watching. One girl walked passed in platform stilettos that were clear at the platform with little white plastic balls bobbing up and down inside. I'm sure she thought she looked good. .I wondered if she was really happy with those shoes...they looked painful to walk in..

Recently I've been tuning my mind in to creating balance within my own life. Kuni and I spend months and months of each year flying back and forth, churning out k's in rental cars and using a ton of the earth's precious resources to fullfill our love of surfing, and make a living out of it. So to balance that I always carbon offset our flights, have recently turned vegetarian and am trying only to eat seafood that is caught locally by fisherman, or even better, my lovely husband.

I'm verging into the realm of over-paranoid, or perhaps not paranoid enough, of the amount of 'iranai' (unwanted/useless) STUFF that we have collected in our house...more surfboards than we ride, countless 'omiyage' (souvenirs), more t-shirts than we know what to do with and other odd bits and pieces. What to do with it all in a country where garage sales don't exist? Donate, to charities, where possible, and flea markets. Yahoo auction. Ebay-my Aunty Chris LOVED ebay! But my favourite, is to pass on things to friends. This act of recycling stuff is so inspiring!! We should all really do it more often. I'm even thinking about bringing up the idea of recycled only gifts at Christmas for the family...

So why the worry? Why this ongoing urge to be more environmentally concious? Because I am a surfer.

The ocean is my playground, my meditation post, my friend.

Her creatures are my cousins, from the smallest piece of coral to the largest whale.

The land is my comfort. Pitch a tent and breathe in the fresh air.

This is the simple life, the special life, and for those who dare you'll never turn back.

This blog is dedicated to the people in my life who have given me the inspiration to surf, search for waves and clean up my footprints. The people who take charge and just go for what they beleive in. And to everyone else who touches my life in some way special-my family, my friends, all whom I can't mention here but I think of every day. Thankyou.

I feel the need to continue to wake each morning and look out the window to check the wind. There's an amazing connection with nature that comes with being a surfer. Wow, what a special life we are given.

Ry has already caught his first wave and even splashed around in the water off a boat in Bali at the outer reefs. As a parent who lives for the ocean, watching your child appreciate even more than what you do is a humbling thing...the way he picks up the sand in his hand and then opens his grasp and watches the wind catch the granules...what is he thinking? Most of the time he just eats it, but when he actually plays with the sand it's an increddible thing to watch. When a wave comes and crashes over his face and he blinks for a moment then wiggles him arms in the sign for wanting more...it's increddible.

Life is pretty special.

Surfing is even more special.

Keep it real, keep it real simple.


Aunty Chris-women's surfing warrior, your passion will go on forever and every wave I catch I know you will be under my feet

Mum-your courage and love is what keeps me going in the difficult times and your laughter is what I hear whenever I feel alone

Uncle Pete-noone could be more dedicated to surfing, and masala, than you.


Ryder-My wild boy, half monster half angel son. Take on the world as the big waves of life come at you, just go go go. I'll be there whenever you fall.

And to everyone else, hold onto what you beleive in, go at it, and reach your dream by keeping it green. My sisters, cousins, friends, family, I treasure you all so much!


Me and Aunty Chris on my wedding day in Hawaii

Giving huge love to my Cousin, Serena, one of the very special people in my life

Serena, Kellie, Ryder, me and Aunty Robyn in the background

Papa Kuni and Ry enjoying a swim in Bali
Sand lover
respecting his elders-another BIG influence in my surfing life, Uncle Yoshi
That smile keeps me waking each day
My boys

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Back Back Back in Japan, now bring on summer! Greenroom Festival is coming too!

What a year it's been so far, already May and I feel like the year has only just begun, fitting back into Japanese life is a bit tricky but the weather has been kind!
Ry and I met up with Kuni in Bali on the way home from Oz, a 2 week fly-by trip that was just what this rehabili surfing mamma needed! Airport lefts were so fun-BIG thanks to Ryuta kun for lending us his quad, a great fit for the friendly waves!

Japan life is hard to slip back into after 5 months on and off in Oz...but the Udon, soba, ramen and sushi get the taste buds singing, and 2 weeks of almost perfect weather hint that summer is on the way, meaning we have officially escaped another winter! yeeey!

Ry is growing everyday and starting to crawl and trudging around in his walker getting into everything, a monster in the making! Blabbing along in whatever language he pleases, not quite sure if it's English or Japanese at this stage, but hopefully he will have a go at both!

Work wise and it never ends, Kuni is off to Niijima tomorrow to catch a good swell and get some shots. In the meantime mumma is home working on a hot new summer edition of OJ magazine and some great aussie destinations for the PPJ Australia website launch.

Event wise and Greenroom Festival 2010 is on next weekend, May 22-23. For those who haven't been get a ticket and get your butts there this year! It is our favourite Japanese music/film/art event of the year and with Arrested Development headling the stage this year, art by The Critical Slide Society, Sho Watanabe and so much more, it's going to be as mindblowing as ever!


My mac shat itself coming home from Bali so until it's fixed I'm re-learning windows which is not fun....

House studio is fully underway and the official launch should be sometime this Japanese summer...keep your eyes peeled for info on this, it's gonna be HUGE!

Love n peace to you all and I promise to get more mobile on this blog now I am back in the office!